In the years since this post was first published, the headsets that are available for the Truss fork have changed.  There is no longer a Cane Creek headset that is made specifically for Truss forks, but there are many that are adaptable to Truss forks using the plastic compression ring mentioned below.  As a rule, Cane Creek headsets can be adapted to Jones Truss forks using the plastic compression ring as long as the headset in question uses a metal crown race (so the 10 does not work any more).   Updated 12/16/16

My Truss fork does not use a normal ‘press on’ crown race but the alterations required are not complicated. Here I explain what will work and how to set things up.

Headsets that are compatible with the Truss fork are (left to right)

1.
Cane Creek 10
2. Cane Creek 20
3. Cane Creek 30
4. Cane Creek ‘Jones Assembly’ 100 (silver) (no longer available)
5. Chris King Headset.

All shown with spacers (on top bearing assembly – see notes).



Above, the options and parts for headsets to be used with the Truss fork. The 10, 40 and 110 Cane Creek headsets just need the compression ring (A) under the crown race and a few headset spacers to work with the Truss. The Cane Creek 100 Jones assembly has a special lower bearing cover (B) designed to be used with the Truss and does not need the extra compression ring. To use a Chris King NoThreadSet headsets (the new type with a GripLock bearing cap only) with the Truss fork, add (C) another bearing cap (GripLock type) under the lower bearings in place of the press-on crown race.


Cane Creek 100 ‘Jones Assembly’
: The lower bearing cover of this headset is especially made to be used with the Truss forks. It is currently only available in silver.

Cane Creek 10, 40 and 100: Use the plastic compression ring under the crown race. Complete headsets are available with the compression ring and spacers. The compression ring is also available on it’s own.

Chris King: The new type King headset, with the internal compression ring not the rubber O-ring type, will work. Replace the lower crown race with another top bearing cover.

Two upper headset assemblies: It is also possible to use two upper headset bearing assemblies of most headsets with the Truss. The lower assemblies will be upside down and may fill with water and dirt a little sooner than a standard lower.

Assembly information – to make it easier to slide the steerer tube through the fork, thread the fork bolts in from the wrong side with a coin between the clamp slot. This will allow you to spread the clamps a little. Don’t open them more than necessary. Fill the gaps between the fork clamps and headset with spacers. It is good if the last spacer has a tight fit.

Tighten the lower fork bolts evenly to 55-60 inch pounds. Then adjust the headset like normal and then tighten the stem bolts and upper fork clamp last.

You can also put the spacers above or below the headset to affect the frame geometry a little. Put all the spacers on top for a lower bb and steeper angles (quicker feeling) or all below for a higher bb and slacker angles (more laid back). It is not much of a change but it is a little – just mm’s and fractions of a degree.